Sunday, August 31, 2008

blackberry custard and seized chocolate

Hello all! Sorry I didnt post this yesterday. I was in the air until about 10pm Irish time and when I got home I have full intention of just pressing 'publish'..however, tiredness got in the way I just crashed into bed. I was at a wedding over the weekend...lots of food, champagne and dancing, plus site-seeing of cute Lille and late nights meeting family members of the bride.

Two weeks ago I paid a visit to a lovely little kitchen shop just around the corner from my favourite shopping street in Dublin (Grafton Street). Had I known it was so close I probably would have spent some money buying cute kitchen accessories for the house and kitchen I don't have. After the last challenge where my big disaster was that Mom's piping bag split (oopps!), I decided I better spend some cash and get myself a newer, dishwasher safe (practically indestructable) piping bag. I dashed there after work and spent a happy half an hour ooohhhing and ahhhing over the embellished spatulas (some with little duckies printed on the spatula head!), bright coloured collinders and fancy looking copper cooking pots. In the end I left happily with a new DD sized piping bag with tips and the cutest little cake decorating set. I spent the next half hour curled up at Mr T's kitchen table playing with the cake decorating set, reading the instructions and generally showing how much of a woman I really am!


This incident was the single greatest reason that despite it being a crazy month, I decided to take on this month's DB challenge. This month saw me visiting Mr T's extended family in Germany.

the statue of the Musicians of Bremen (we flew into Bremen airport and travelled to Magdeburg)


The Green Citadel of Magdeburg, can you think of anywhere more fabulous to live!!? Look it up on the net, Hundertwasser left many more wonderful architectural masterpieces in other locations around the world

This trip consisted of having a barbecue in his Aunt & Uncle's allotment with fresh produce gracing the table and wonderful breakfasts every morning provided by his parents which included homemade jams, fresh honey and the best seeded dark breadrolls ever! The rest of the month was taken up with organising myself with job applications and interviews (I have been trying for months to leave this job of mine) and cat-sitting for my manager from hell. That was definitely something I am NOT going to do again. Cats are nice in theory, but in a small confined spinster flat where the owner has hidden the key that unlocks the windows and doesn't have a catflap for the greater independence of the cat, (and lesser hassle of a potential cat-sitter), it was an interesting month. Today I can finally breathe a sigh of relief because I found a wedding present, card, bag and outfit for the wedding I am attending in France, all in record time...and I am all packed for my flight tomorrow morning. Go me!

In the midst of all this, I seriously didn't think I could even hope to have the time to spare to make chocolate eclairs. The thought of attempting to make crispy, air-filled, golden brown choux pastry filled me with especial dread! However, I had my new piping bag which would get me through! I made them on Saturday 23rd, dividing my time between assembling the eclairs and making brunch for my family who was so cruelly barred from the kitchen so I could complete my baking.

The finished product!!

The recipe is below. I halved the choux recipe and played around with the pastry cream, using a different recipe found on Epicurous.com and modified it a little. The pastry cream unfortunately came out more custard like: thick and creamy. I used sugar sparingly so it wasn't overly sweet either. To the cream I added home-made fresh blackberry jam (thanks Mr T's mom!), which resulted it a delightfully vibrant purple pastry cream for the centre of what were basically giant profiteroles (which I had such fun piping with my new bag!). I pretty much stuck to the chocolate glaze recipe, zapping the chocolate with a little butter and lots of cream in the microwave. This sounds great in theory, quick and easy, but I always always have seized chocolate on my hands. Luckily I find beating the hell out of it forces the oil and chocolate to combine again and form a very silky sauce. A final dusting of castor sugar on top counter-balanced the tang of the blackberries and the piquant taste of the bittersweet chocolate.

Problems I had with the recipe itself were confined to the choux pastry. It came together really well and I made it very easily. The only problem was after following the strict baking instructions (and having a bowl of hot water underneath), I found once they had cooled that they were underdone which gave them the eggy taste that many of the DBs complained about. I stuck them in for another few minutes with the oven door open and that did the trick. They were puffy and light, some were almost completely hollow inside. The pastry cream went down well even though it was thick. I didn't mix up enough of the blackberry-spiked cream so some of the eclairs were under-filled but there were no complaints. On the plus side, I tried my hand at more pleasantly staged photos of the finished product which you can see below. I think I have learnt something!

Roll on next month because it's my brother's 21st and a spot of baking will go down well for a family party!


Pierre Hermé’s Chocolate Eclairs
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé
(makes 20-24 Éclairs)


Cream Puff Dough
• ½ cup (125g) whole milk
• ½ cup (125g) water
• 1 stick (4 ounces; 115g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• ¼ teaspoon sugar
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature

I halved this recipe with the following measures: 63ml of liquid ingredients-57g of butter-70g flour-2 eggs-salt &sugar to taste.





1) Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Divide the oven into thirds by positioning the racks in the upper and lower half of the oven. Line two baking sheets with waxed or parchment paper.

2) In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to the boil.

3) Once the mixture is at a rolling boil, add all of the flour at once, reduce the heat to medium and start to stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon. The dough comes together very quickly. Do not worry if a slight crust forms at the bottom of the pan, it’s supposed to. You need to carry on stirring for a further 2-3 minutes to dry the dough. After this time the dough will be very soft and smooth.

4) Transfer the dough into a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using your hand-mixer or if you still have the energy, continue by hand. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each egg has been added to incorporate it into the dough.
You will notice that after you have added the first egg, the dough will separate, once again do not worry. As you keep working the dough, it will come back all together again by the time you have added the third egg. In the end the dough should be thick and shiny and when lifted it should fall back into the bowl in a ribbon.

5) The dough should be still warm. It is now ready to be used for the éclairs as directed above.

6) Fill a large pastry bag fitted with a 2/3 (2cm) plain tip nozzle with the warm cream puff dough.
Pipe the dough onto the baking sheets in long, 4 to 41/2 inches (about 11 cm) chubby fingers.
Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) space in between each dough strip to allow them room to puff.
The dough should give you enough to pipe 20-24 éclairs.

7) Slide both the baking sheets into the oven and bake for 7 minutes. After the 7 minutes, slip the handle of a wooden spoon into the door to keep in ajar. When the éclairs have been in the oven for a total of 12 minutes, rotate the sheets top to bottom and front to back. Continue baking for a further 8 minutes or until the éclairs are puffed, golden and firm. The total baking time should be approximately 20 minutes.

Notes:
1) Once the dough is made you need to shape it immediately.

2) You can pipe the dough and the freeze it. Simply pipe the dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets and slide the sheets into the freezer. Once the dough is completely frozen, transfer the piped shapes into freezer bags. They can be kept in the freezer for up to a month.

Chocolate Pastry Cream
Recipe from Epicurious (and modified)

• 2 cups (500g) whole milk
• 1 egg
• 2 egg yolks
• Raw cane granulated sugar to taste (3 tablespoons I used)
• Vanilla essence/pod (optional)


1) In a small saucepan, bring the milk and vanilla to a boil. In the meantime, combine the yolks, sugar and cornstarch together and whisk in a heavy bottomed saucepan.

2) Once the milk has reached a boil, temper the yolks by whisking a couple spoonfuls of the hot milk into the yolk mixture. Continue whisking and slowly pour the rest of the milk into the tempered yolk mixture.

3) Place the pan over medium heat and whisk vigorously (without stop) until the mixture returns to a boil and it thickens.

4) Strain it before use, it will be thick. I believe I might have put too much cornstarch. I will be thinning it with milk when I reheat it later this week and add some more vanilla essence to make it more like custard.


Notes
1) In order to avoid a skin forming on the pastry cream, cover with plastic wrap pressed onto the cream.

2) Tempering the eggs raises the temperature of the eggs slowly so that they do not scramble.

Chocolate Glaze
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé
(makes 1 cup or 300g)

• 1/3 cup (80g) heavy cream
• 3½ oz (100g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 4 tsp (20 g) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, at room temperature
• 7 tbsp (110 g) Chocolate Sauce (recipe below), warm or at room temperature (maybe this is why my mixture seized, some already made chocolate sauce could have helped to ease the seize)




1) In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly begin to add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon or spatula.

2) Stirring gently, stir in the butter, piece by piece followed by the chocolate sauce.

Notes:

1) It is best to glaze the eclairs after the glaze is made, but if you are pressed for time, you can make the glaze a couple days ahead of time, store it in the fridge and bring it up to the proper temperature (95 to 104 F) when ready to glaze.

Chocolate Sauce
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé
(makes 1½ cups or 525 g)


• 4½ oz (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 cup (250 g) water
• ½ cup (125 g) crème fraîche, or heavy cream
• 1/3 cup (70 g) sugar

1) Place all the ingredients into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure to stir constantly. Then reduce the heat to low and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens.

2) It may take 10-15 minutes for the sauce to thicken, but you will know when it is done when it coats the back of your spoon.

Notes:
1) You can make this sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator for two weeks. Reheat the sauce in a microwave oven or a double boiler before using.
2) This sauce is also great for cakes, ice-cream and tarts.


Assembling the éclairs:

1) Slice the éclairs horizontally, using a serrated knife and a gently sawing motion. Set aside the bottoms and place the tops on a rack over a piece of parchment paper.

2) The glaze should be barely warm to the touch (between 95 – 104 degrees F or 35 – 40 degrees C, as measured on an instant read thermometer). Spread the glaze over the tops of the éclairs using a metal icing spatula. Allow the tops to set and in the meantime fill the bottoms with the pastry cream.

3) Pipe or spoon the pastry cream into the bottoms of the éclairs. Make sure you fill the bottoms with enough cream to mound above the pastry. Place the glazed tops onto the pastry cream and wriggle gently to settle them.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

The Almond and Cherry birthday cake. July Challenge completed!

Last month, I discovered Daring Bakers and signed up in anticipation of all the lovely things I would learn to make, the challenges I would get to complete.
My first ever challenge was a first for a lot of things. First praline, buttercream and layer cake. It was also only the second time that I made a ganache icing. The original recipe is below, however we were able to pick our nut and fruit preserve of choice. The choices of liqueur to go with this pairing became endless as well and I found myself researching culinary science flavour tables in an effort to figure out whether pistachio, apricot with rum would work. I should have just tried it out to see.

In the end, I stuck with my favourite flavours of almond and cherry with cherry brandy, bittersweet chocolate ganache and a brown sugar caramel for the almond praline.

As first challenges go, it was definitely a challenge which consumed my mind for a few weeks and littered Mom's kitchen with ingredients, used utensils, flour-dusted weighing scales, cream-coated measuring spoons, chocolate-dipped blades from the blender and a fridge of leftover ganache, buttercream, ground almonds. There are pretty dark bottles of liqueur now sitting on the window-sill. I don't think she thought I would persevere and she suggested I throw in the towel a few days before my planned baking day since I had a bout of IBS.

No! I said, It's a challenge, I can't step out of my first challenge!



The truth is that I did overcome a lot of things to complete this cake, see the photos! My first attempt at the cake sunk, flopped and was adamant it would be a skinny cake! Perfect for snacking on as my family later discovered! No good for attempting to fit a layer of buttercream in-between though. However, it gave me an indication of the tastes of the almond, cherry liqueur (1 1/2 tsps) and almond essence (1tsp). I also got a thumbs-up for my liberal addition of roughly grated orange rind.

The second attempt at the cake came out a bit better, still too thin though, darn it! In desperation, I decided I would have to make the second layer seperately and I tried out a simple sponge recipe from mom's trusty book: 100 Favourites Cookbook. I figured the filbert genoise was a basic sponge with a nut meal, liqueur and then buttercream and ganache for the icing and extras. That sponge worked out better and formed the bottom layer of the cake. I substituted part of the flour for nut meal and used self-raising flour.




My family don't have an overly sweet-tooth and this cake was to be unveiled on Sunday 27th for Dad's 52nd. The decision was made that the layer should be cherry preserve (sugar free, morello cherry preserves from my local health food shop) and whipped cream. I noticed later that the layer wasn't half thick enough and I should have brushed more of the sugar syrup (again spiked with more cherry brandy. I'm not an alcho, I just like liqueurs!).

The ganache (again with more of that lovely sweet, moreish, alcoholic cherry brandy) was made with 70% bittersweet chocolate (a mix of Lindt and Seeds of Change brands). The ganache seized on me, thankfully I knew how to fix that: pour it into the blender, whisk furiously for 2-3 minutes and force the oil from the liqueur and chocolate to marry together. The result caused Mom's eyes to go wide and for her to sneakily lick the bowl in-between ironing. How the roles have changed over the years! It spread on the cake really well and looked glossy and pretty.


The buttercream looked frankly frightful with the amount of sugar and eggs in it, so I decided to use the recipe that Chris at Mele Cotte used in the end for hers (see also below). I used soft, fine, light brown demerera sugar throughout the recipe. This toned down the sweetness of the cake and lent a nice caramel flavour to the buttercream. I used the sugar sparingly knowing that the praline would sweeten things up. The praline, also made with brown sugar, produced a moreish, smokey, caramel flavour when paired with the almonds to form the brittle. Added to the buttercream it was a very yummy, creamy, slightly savoury counter to the rich ganache, pity the piping bag burst on me and I am pathetic at frosting! Oh well, there is some left in the fridge, wonder how it might taste on brioche?? Those red things are cherry halves by the way. Mom thought they were tomatoes at first for some reason!

In the end, the cake was well received though I found it dry and lacking ommmphf. Daddy ate it and Mr T asked for a second slice (major brownie points for him!) I think he was more impressed that I stuck at it, something I learnt that everyone who knows me and knew I was completing the challenge was impressed by. I have learnt something, I do persist when I really want to!



Happy Birthday Dad!



Pathetic filling, more cherry, more cream, more syrup, more icing....

I want to try it again as a mini-cake or cup-cake/muffin-sized morsels with pistachio and raspberry with dark Jamaican rum or try out the Jagermiester herbal liqueur with pistachio and apricot. Alls I can say is, I have to get me a new piping bag....

Filbert Gateau with Praline Buttercream

From Great Cakes by Carol Walter

Filbert Genoise

Because of the amount of nuts in the recipe, this preparation is different from a classic genoise.

1 ½ cups hazelnuts, toasted/skinned
2/3 cup cake flour, unsifted
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
7 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar, divided ¼ & ¾ cups
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. grated lemon rind
5 lg. egg whites
¼ cup warm, clarified butter (100 – 110 degrees)

I ended up halving the recipe using Chris' guidelines to make a 6' cake

For the Gateau ingredients I did:

¾ cups hazelnuts, toasted/skinned
1/3 cup cake flour, unsifted
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
4 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
½ tsp. vanilla extract
¼ tsp. grated lemon rind
3 lg. egg whites
1/8 cup warm, clarified butter (100 – 110 degrees)



Position rack in the lower 3rd of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 10” X 2” inch round cake pan.

Using a food processor, process nuts, cake flour, and cornstarch for about 30 seconds. Then, pulse the mixture about 10 times to get a fine, powdery mixture. You’ll know the nuts are ready when they begin to gather together around the sides of the bowl. While you want to make sure there aren’t any large pieces, don’t over-process. Set aside.

Put the yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, and beat until thick and light in color, about 3-4 minutes on med-high speed. Slowly, add ¾ cup of sugar. It is best to do so by adding a tablespoon at a time, taking about 3 minutes for this step. When finished, the mixture should be ribbony. Blend in the vanilla and grated lemon rind. Remove and set aside.

Place egg whites in a large, clean bowl of the electric mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed, until soft peaks. Increase to med-high speed and slowly add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, over 15-20 seconds or so. Continue to beat for another ½ minute.
Add the yolk mixture to the whites and whisk for 1 minute.

Pour the warm butter in a liquid measure cup (or a spouted container). * It must be a deep bottom bowl and work must be fast.* Put the nut meal in a mesh strainer (or use your hand – working quickly) and sprinkle it in about 2 tablespoons at a time – folding it carefully for about 40 folds. Be sure to exclude any large chunks/pieces of nuts. Again, work quickly and carefully as to not deflate the mixture. When all but about 2 Tbsp. of nut meal remain, quickly and steadily pour the warm butter over the batter. Then, with the remaining nut meal, fold the batter to incorporate, about 13 or so folds.

With a rubber spatula, transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or back of a spoon. **If collected butter remains at the bottom of the bowl, do not add it to the batter! It will impede the cake rising while baking.

Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles and bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes. You’ll know the cake is done when it is springy to the touch and it separates itself from the side of the pan. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Invert onto a cake rack sprayed with nonstick coating, removing the pan. Cool the cake completely.

*If not using the cake right away, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap, then in a plastic bag, then in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If freezing, wrap in foil, then the bag and use within 2-3 months.

Sugar Syrup
Makes 1 cup, good for one 10-inch cake – split into 3 layers

1 cup water
¼ cup sugar
2 Tbsp. dark rum or orange flavored liqueur

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the liqueur. Cool slightly before using on the cake. *Can be made in advance.

Praline Buttercream
1 recipe Swiss Buttercream
1/3 cup praline paste
1 ½ - 2 Tbsp. Jamaican rum (optional)

Blend ½ cup buttercream into the paste, then add to the remaining buttercream. Whip briefly on med-low speed to combine. Blend in rum.

Swiss Buttercream
4 lg. egg whites
¾ cup sugar
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly firm
1 ½ -2 Tbsp. Grand Marnier or liqueur of your choice
1 tsp. vanilla

Chris at Mele Cotte used the following alternative buttercream recipe
"Because the Swiss buttercream felt like giving me fits, after several failed attempts…I switched to a Buttercream from epicurious. I creamed 12 ounces cream cheese, room temperature and 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, then added 5 ½ cups powdered sugar, sifted and 1 tsp. vanilla. Then I added the praline paste. Next time, I will (a) use less powdered sugar. I felt it was way too sweet after I added the praline. But, my southern taster loved it. (b) make sure there are no sugar chunks in my paste!"

Place the egg whites in a lg/ bowl of a elevtric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment until the whites are foamy and they begin to thicken (just before the soft peak stage). Set the bowl over a saucepan filled with about 2 inches of simmering water, making sure the bowl is not touching the water. Then, whisk in the sugar by adding 1-2 tablespoon of sugar at a time over a minutes time. Continue beating 2-3 minutes or until the whites are warm (about 120 degrees) and the sugar is dissolved. The mixture should look thick and like whipped marshmallows.
Remove from pan and with either the paddle or whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on med-high until its a thick, cool meringue – about 5-7 minutes. *Do not overbeat*. Set aside.

Place the butter in a separate clean mixing bowl and, using the paddle attachment, cream the butter at medium speed for 40-60 seconds, or until smooth and creamy. *Do not overbeat or the butter will become toooooo soft.*

On med-low speed, blend the meringue into the butter, about 1-2 Tbsp. at a time, over 1 minute. Add the liqueur and vanilla and mix for 30-45 seconds longer, until thick and creamy.

Refrigerate 10-15 minutes before using.

Wait! My buttercream won’t come together! Reheat the buttercream briefly over simmering water for about 5 seconds, stirring with a wooden spoon. Be careful and do not overbeat. The mixture will look broken with some liquid at the bottom of the bowl. Return the bowl to the mixer and whip on medium speed just until the cream comes back together.

Wait! My buttercream is too soft! Chill the buttercream in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes and rewhip. If that doesn’t work, cream an additional 2-4 Tbsp. of butter in a small bowl– making sure the butter is not as soft as the original amount, so make sure is cool and smooth. On low speed, quickly add the creamed butter to the buttercream, 1 Tbsp. at a time.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or can be frozen for up to 6 months. If freezing, store in 2 16-oz. plastic containers and thaw in the refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for several hours.

Praline Paste
1 cup (4 ½ oz.) Hazelnuts, toasted/skinless
2/3 cup Sugar
Line a jelly roll pan with parchment and lightly butter.

Put the sugar in a heavy 10-inch skillet. Heat on low flame for about 10-20 min until the sugar melts around the edges. Do not stir the sugar. Swirl the pan if necessary to prevent the melted sugar from burning. Brush the sides of the pan with water to remove sugar crystals. If the sugar in the center does not melt, stir briefly. When the sugar is completely melted and caramel in color, remove from heat. Stir in the nuts with a wooden spoon and separate the clusters. Return to low heat and stir to coat the nuts on all sides. Cook until the mixture starts to bubble. **Remember – extremely hot mixture.** Then onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible. As it cools, it will harden into brittle. Break the candied nuts into pieces and place them in the food processor. Pulse into a medium-fine crunch or process until the brittle turns into a powder. To make paste, process for several minutes. Store in an airtight container and store in a cook dry place. Do not refrigerate.

Apricot Glaze
Good for one 10-inch cake

2/3 cup thick apricot preserves
1 Tbsp. water

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and preserves to a slow boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. If the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the saucepan, add water as needed.

Remove from heat and, using a strainer, press the mixture through the mesh and discard any remnants. With a pastry brush, apply the glaze onto the cake while the cake is still warm. If the glaze is too thick, thin to a preferred consistency with drops of water.

Ganache Glaze
Makes about 1 cup, enough to cover the top and sides of a 9 or 10 inch layer or tube cake

**Ganache can take on many forms. While warm – great fudge sauce. While cool or lukewarm – semisweet glaze. Slightly chilled – can be whipped into a filling/frosting. Cold & solid – the base of candied chocolate truffles.

6 oz. (good) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, like Lindt
6 oz. (¾ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp. light corn syrup
1 Tbsp. Grand Marnier, Cointreay, or dark Jamaican rum (optional)
¾ tsp. vanilla
½ - 1 tsp. hot water, if needed

Blend vanilla and liqueur/rum together and set aside.

Break the chocolate into 1-inch pieces and place in the basket of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer into a medium sized bowl and set aside.

Heat the cream and corn syrup in a saucepan, on low, until it reached a gentle boil. Once to the gently boil, immediately and carefully pour over the chocolate. Leave it alone for one minute, then slowly stir and mix the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream. Carefully blend in vanilla mixture. If the surface seems oily, add ½ - 1 tsp hot water. The glaze will thicken, but should still be pourable. If it doesn’t thicken, refrigerate for about 5 minutes, but make sure it doesn’t get too cold!

Assembling Cake

Cut a cardboard disk slightly smaller than the cake. Divide the cake into 3 layers and place the first layer top-side down on the disk. Using a pastry brush, moisten the layer with 3-4 Tbsp. of warm sugar syrup. Measure out 1 cup of praline buttercream and set aside.

Spread the bottom layer with a ¼-inch thickness of the remaining buttercream. Cover with ½ of the whipped cream, leaving ¼-inch border around the edge of the cake. Place the middle layer over the first, brush with sugar syrup, spreading with buttercream. Cover with the remaining whipped cream.

Moisten the cut side of the third layer with additional sugar syrup and place cut side down on the cake. Gently, press the sides of the cake to align the layers. Refrigerate to chill for at least 30 minutes.

Lift the cake by sliding your palm under the cardboard. Holding a serrated or very sharp night with an 8-ich blade held parallel to the sides of the cake, trim the sides so that they are perfectly straight. Cut a slight bevel at the top to help the glaze drip over the edge. Brush the top and sides of the cake with warm apricot glaze, sealing the cut areas completely. Chill while you prepare the ganache.

Place a rack over a large shallow pan to catch the ganache drippings. Remove the gateau from the refrigerator and put it the rack. With a metal spatula in hand, and holding the saucepan about 10 inches above the cake, pour the ganache onto the cake’s center. Move the spatula over the top of the ganache about 4 times to get a smooth and mirror-like appearance. The ganache should cover the top and run down the sides of the cake. When the ganache has been poured and is coating the cake, lift one side of the rack and bang it once on the counter to help spread the ganache evenly and break any air bubbles. (Work fast before setting starts.) Patch any bare spots on the sides with a smaller spatula, but do not touch the top after the “bang”. Let the cake stand at least 15 minutes to set after glazing.

To garnish the cake, fit a 12 – 14-inch pastry bag with a #114 large leaf tip. Fill the bag with the reserved praline cream. Stating ½ inch from the outer edge of the cake, position the pastry tube at a 90 degree angle with the top almost touching the top of the cake. Apply pressure to the pastry bag, moving it slightly toward the center of the cake. As the buttercream flows on the cake, reverse the movement backward toward the edge of the cake and finish by pulling the bag again to the center. Stop applying pressure and press the bag downward, then quickly pull the tip up to break the flow of frosting. Repeat, making 12 leaves evenly spaced around the surface of the cake.

Make a second row of leaves on the top of the first row, moving the pastry bag about ¾ inch closer to the center. The leaves should overlap. Make a 3rd row, moving closer and closer to the center. Add a 4th row if you have the room. But, leave a 2-inch space in the center for a chopped filbert garnish. Refrigerate uncovered for 3-4 hours to allow the cake to set. Remove the cake from the refrigerator at least 3 hours before serving.

Leftover cake can be covered with foil and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Filbert Gateau with Praline Buttercream
From Great Cakes by Carol Walter

1 Filbert Genoise
1 recipe sugar syrup, flavored with dark rum
1 recipe Praline Buttercream
½ cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 recipe Apricot Glaze
1 recipe Ganache Glaze, prepared just before using
3 tablespoons filberts, toasted and coarsely chopped

Filbert Genoise

Because of the amount of nuts in the recipe, this preparation is different from a classic genoise.

1 ½ cups hazelnuts, toasted/skinned
2/3 cup cake flour, unsifted
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
7 large egg yolks
1 cup sugar, divided ¼ & ¾ cups
1 tsp. vanilla extract
½ tsp. grated lemon rind
5 lg. egg whites
¼ cup warm, clarified butter (100 – 110 degrees)

Position rack in the lower 3rd of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 10” X 2” inch round cake pan.

Using a food processor, process nuts, cake flour, and cornstarch for about 30 seconds. Then, pulse the mixture about 10 times to get a fine, powdery mixture. You’ll know the nuts are ready when they begin to gather together around the sides of the bowl. While you want to make sure there aren’t any large pieces, don’t over-process. Set aside.

Put the yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, and beat until thick and light in color, about 3-4 minutes on med-high speed. Slowly, add ¾ cup of sugar. It is best to do so by adding a tablespoon at a time, taking about 3 minutes for this step. When finished, the mixture should be ribbony. Blend in the vanilla and grated lemon rind. Remove and set aside.

Place egg whites in a large, clean bowl of the electric mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed, until soft peaks. Increase to med-high speed and slowly add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar, over 15-20 seconds or so. Continue to beat for another ½ minute.
Add the yolk mixture to the whites and whisk for 1 minute.

Pour the warm butter in a liquid measure cup (or a spouted container). * It must be a deep bottom bowl and work must be fast.* Put the nut meal in a mesh strainer (or use your hand – working quickly) and sprinkle it in about 2 tablespoons at a time – folding it carefully for about 40 folds. Be sure to exclude any large chunks/pieces of nuts. Again, work quickly and carefully as to not deflate the mixture. When all but about 2 Tbsp. of nut meal remain, quickly and steadily pour the warm butter over the batter. Then, with the remaining nut meal, fold the batter to incorporate, about 13 or so folds.

With a rubber spatula, transfer the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the surface with the spatula or back of a spoon. **If collected butter remains at the bottom of the bowl, do not add it to the batter! It will impede the cake rising while baking.

Tap the pan on the counter to remove air bubbles and bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes. You’ll know the cake is done when it is springy to the touch and it separates itself from the side of the pan. Remove from oven and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Invert onto a cake rack sprayed with nonstick coating, removing the pan. Cool the cake completely.

*If not using the cake right away, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap, then in a plastic bag, then in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If freezing, wrap in foil, then the bag and use within 2-3 months.

Sugar Syrup
Makes 1 cup, good for one 10-inch cake – split into 3 layers

1 cup water
¼ cup sugar
2 Tbsp. dark rum or orange flavored liqueur

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the liqueur. Cool slightly before using on the cake. *Can be made in advance.

Praline Buttercream
1 recipe Swiss Buttercream
1/3 cup praline paste
1 ½ - 2 Tbsp. Jamaican rum (optional)

Blend ½ cup buttercream into the paste, then add to the remaining buttercream. Whip briefly on med-low speed to combine. Blend in rum.

Swiss Buttercream
4 lg. egg whites
¾ cup sugar
1 ½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly firm
1 ½ -2 Tbsp. Grand Marnier or liqueur of your choice
1 tsp. vanilla

Place the egg whites in a lg/ bowl of a elevtric mixer and beat with the whisk attachment until the whites are foamy and they begin to thicken (just before the soft peak stage). Set the bowl over a saucepan filled with about 2 inches of simmering water, making sure the bowl is not touching the water. Then, whisk in the sugar by adding 1-2 tablespoon of sugar at a time over a minutes time. Continue beating 2-3 minutes or until the whites are warm (about 120 degrees) and the sugar is dissolved. The mixture should look thick and like whipped marshmallows.
Remove from pan and with either the paddle or whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on med-high until its a thick, cool meringue – about 5-7 minutes. *Do not overbeat*. Set aside.

Place the butter in a separate clean mixing bowl and, using the paddle attachment, cream the butter at medium speed for 40-60 seconds, or until smooth and creamy. *Do not overbeat or the butter will become toooooo soft.*

On med-low speed, blend the meringue into the butter, about 1-2 Tbsp. at a time, over 1 minute. Add the liqueur and vanilla and mix for 30-45 seconds longer, until thick and creamy.

Refrigerate 10-15 minutes before using.

Wait! My buttercream won’t come together! Reheat the buttercream briefly over simmering water for about 5 seconds, stirring with a wooden spoon. Be careful and do not overbeat. The mixture will look broken with some liquid at the bottom of the bowl. Return the bowl to the mixer and whip on medium speed just until the cream comes back together.

Wait! My buttercream is too soft! Chill the buttercream in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes and rewhip. If that doesn’t work, cream an additional 2-4 Tbsp. of butter in a small bowl– making sure the butter is not as soft as the original amount, so make sure is cool and smooth. On low speed, quickly add the creamed butter to the buttercream, 1 Tbsp. at a time.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days, or can be frozen for up to 6 months. If freezing, store in 2 16-oz. plastic containers and thaw in the refrigerator overnight or at room temperature for several hours.

Praline Paste
1 cup (4 ½ oz.) Hazelnuts, toasted/skinless
2/3 cup Sugar
Line a jelly roll pan with parchment and lightly butter.

Put the sugar in a heavy 10-inch skillet. Heat on low flame for about 10-20 min until the sugar melts around the edges. Do not stir the sugar. Swirl the pan if necessary to prevent the melted sugar from burning. Brush the sides of the pan with water to remove sugar crystals. If the sugar in the center does not melt, stir briefly. When the sugar is completely melted and caramel in color, remove from heat. Stir in the nuts with a wooden spoon and separate the clusters. Return to low heat and stir to coat the nuts on all sides. Cook until the mixture starts to bubble. **Remember – extremely hot mixture.** Then onto the parchment lined sheet and spread as evenly as possible. As it cools, it will harden into brittle. Break the candied nuts into pieces and place them in the food processor. Pulse into a medium-fine crunch or process until the brittle turns into a powder. To make paste, process for several minutes. Store in an airtight container and store in a cook dry place. Do not refrigerate.

Apricot Glaze
Good for one 10-inch cake

2/3 cup thick apricot preserves
1 Tbsp. water

In a small, yet heavy saucepan, bring the water and preserves to a slow boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes. If the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the saucepan, add water as needed.

Remove from heat and, using a strainer, press the mixture through the mesh and discard any remnants. With a pastry brush, apply the glaze onto the cake while the cake is still warm. If the glaze is too thick, thin to a preferred consistency with drops of water.

Ganache Glaze
Makes about 1 cup, enough to cover the top and sides of a 9 or 10 inch layer or tube cake

**Ganache can take on many forms. While warm – great fudge sauce. While cool or lukewarm – semisweet glaze. Slightly chilled – can be whipped into a filling/frosting. Cold & solid – the base of candied chocolate truffles.

6 oz. (good) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, like Lindt
6 oz. (¾ cup heavy cream
1 tbsp. light corn syrup
1 Tbsp. Grand Marnier, Cointreay, or dark Jamaican rum (optional)
¾ tsp. vanilla
½ - 1 tsp. hot water, if needed

Blend vanilla and liqueur/rum together and set aside.

Break the chocolate into 1-inch pieces and place in the basket of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Transfer into a medium sized bowl and set aside.

Heat the cream and corn syrup in a saucepan, on low, until it reached a gentle boil. Once to the gently boil, immediately and carefully pour over the chocolate. Leave it alone for one minute, then slowly stir and mix the chocolate and cream together until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream. Carefully blend in vanilla mixture. If the surface seems oily, add ½ - 1 tsp hot water. The glaze will thicken, but should still be pourable. If it doesn’t thicken, refrigerate for about 5 minutes, but make sure it doesn’t get too cold!

Assembling Cake

Cut a cardboard disk slightly smaller than the cake. Divide the cake into 3 layers and place the first layer top-side down on the disk. Using a pastry brush, moisten the layer with 3-4 Tbsp. of warm sugar syrup. Measure out 1 cup of praline buttercream and set aside.

Spread the bottom layer with a ¼-inch thickness of the remaining buttercream. Cover with ½ of the whipped cream, leaving ¼-inch border around the edge of the cake. Place the middle layer over the first, brush with sugar syrup, spreading with buttercream. Cover with the remaining whipped cream.

Moisten the cut side of the third layer with additional sugar syrup and place cut side down on the cake. Gently, press the sides of the cake to align the layers. Refrigerate to chill for at least 30 minutes.

Lift the cake by sliding your palm under the cardboard. Holding a serrated or very sharp night with an 8-ich blade held parallel to the sides of the cake, trim the sides so that they are perfectly straight. Cut a slight bevel at the top to help the glaze drip over the edge. Brush the top and sides of the cake with warm apricot glaze, sealing the cut areas completely. Chill while you prepare the ganache.

Place a rack over a large shallow pan to catch the ganache drippings. Remove the gateau from the refrigerator and put it the rack. With a metal spatula in hand, and holding the saucepan about 10 inches above the cake, pour the ganache onto the cake’s center. Move the spatula over the top of the ganache about 4 times to get a smooth and mirror-like appearance. The ganache should cover the top and run down the sides of the cake. When the ganache has been poured and is coating the cake, lift one side of the rack and bang it once on the counter to help spread the ganache evenly and break any air bubbles. (Work fast before setting starts.) Patch any bare spots on the sides with a smaller spatula, but do not touch the top after the “bang”. Let the cake stand at least 15 minutes to set after glazing.

To garnish the cake, fit a 12 – 14-inch pastry bag with a #114 large leaf tip. Fill the bag with the reserved praline cream. Stating ½ inch from the outer edge of the cake, position the pastry tube at a 90 degree angle with the top almost touching the top of the cake. Apply pressure to the pastry bag, moving it slightly toward the center of the cake. As the buttercream flows on the cake, reverse the movement backward toward the edge of the cake and finish by pulling the bag again to the center. Stop applying pressure and press the bag downward, then quickly pull the tip up to break the flow of frosting. Repeat, making 12 leaves evenly spaced around the surface of the cake.

Make a second row of leaves on the top of the first row, moving the pastry bag about ¾ inch closer to the center. The leaves should overlap. Make a 3rd row, moving closer and closer to the center. Add a 4th row if you have the room. But, leave a 2-inch space in the center for a chopped filbert garnish. Refrigerate uncovered for 3-4 hours to allow the cake to set. Remove the cake from the refrigerator at least 3 hours before serving.

Leftover cake can be covered with foil and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

empty plates

At a weak moment, I agreed to house sit for my manager. To water her plants and cat-sit her handsome but not too bright cat. This could backfire on me, considering the work relationship my manager and I have. The thought has brought on the munchies, or perhaps its the nasty weather we have here at the moment. I am in a chocolate pudding, oily pasta with meaty aubergines mood. Mr T (my German boyfriend) is coming over for dinner tonight. Good timing is all I can say. Empty plates was the result. Now I have to clean up and feed the cat.

I have only just been living in her little cute cottage for a week. It feels like forever and reminders of my manager are everywhere. At the same time, I am enjoying playing house a little and having my own space for a while, even if it comes with a spoilt, tuxedo-ed cat (who is rather cute but I am not a feline fan really).

Mr T loves it when I cook for him. I love to cook for him as well, it gives me a chance to try out something, to just relax and unwind over yummy smells and simmering pots. Tonight its a simple meal: chicken fillets grilled with potato chickpea salad.

The chicken fillets were marinated in tomato paste, salt and pepper and lemon juice and grilled. The new potatoes were scrubbed, some peeled (for the benefit of Mr T who doesn't understand the fibre benefits of potato skins) and boiled until tender. These were then added to a salad of peppers, cherry tomatoes, raw sugar snap peas (something I adore and use all the time) and chickpeas. The dressing was simply wholegrain mustard, lemon juice, oregano, olive oil and white wine vinegar. Voila! (no photos as yet, need to get my act together with this)

Yesterday: 29th July
Mr T came over again (this post has been expanding since the 22nd when I was in the cottage for a week). This time, I felt in the mood for something spicy and wintry. I remember Mom used to make a meaty, gravy-laden sausage stew with tender veg on a bed of rice for us when we were small. Dad still moans that we never get it anymore in the winter. Mom's excuse that she can't find sausages robust enough to withstand being in a stew and keeping their shape. I decided to give it a try and that mine would be more to my Mediterranean taste: LOTS of tomatoes, some heat from spicy sausages, earthiness from paprika. The result was my take on sausage stew and my first attempt at writing down a recipe (no accurate measures though I'm afraid, I wing it when I cook).

1 large clove of garlic
1 small-medium onion (I'm not a big fan of onions, they tend to be sour in Ireland)
1 packet (of 8) sausages.  
1 sweet pepper (whatever colour you like, I'm partial to orange or red ones)
0.5/1 aubergine/brinjal/eggplant (depending on tastes and how many you are feeding)
A good handful of button mushrooms (again depending on tastes)
1 tin of Roma plum tomatoes (does this constitute a cheat?)
A generous handful of sun-blushed tomatoes (not as bitter as fully sun-dried)
Pepper and salt to taste
2 tsps (or again to taste) Paprika
1/2 vegetable stock cube ( I cheat using this, I know)

Directions:
Heat a little oil in a deep pot, add garlic and roughly chopped onion and allow to brown and wilt

Add the bitesize pieces of sausages and brown (stirring occasionally). I chose a meaty, spicy sausage from my supermarket which I thought could be cut into bitesizes and wouldn't fall apart. A butcher is better, but living in the cottage, I have limited knowledge as yet of my local village

Remove from the pan
Add to the pan the aubergine, mushrooms and pepper cut as roughly or thinly as prefered. Make sure that they are roughly the same size though for even-cooking, though it never seems to be a problem I have had.
Once browned a little, add about half an inch of water into which you had dissolved the stock cube
Simmer a little, add the sausages and onion mix, a generous amount of paprika and pepper. I found the salt wasn't needed, the stock cube usually is salty enough. 
Add the tin of tomatoes chopped and the roughly chopped sun-blush tomatoes and a pinch of sugar to counter the tomato-acidity. (I like that acidity sometimes, so I didn't bother).
Let it bubble away for about 10-15 minutes and then leave it to simmer very gently for a further 15 minutes.
I then jazzed it up with roughly cut sugar snaps towards the end, and a 1 1/2 tsps of tomato paste.
I served it with basmati rice.

There was enough for lunch today. This time I added in kidney beans instead of having it with rice. Photos will be up tomorrow. (I really need to learn to carry my camera everywhere with me!)

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

my first post

Needless to say, I got no cooking in this weekend. I did however try out a new restaurant in town. A few girlfriends and I mozeyed on down to Carluccios. Its the first of these stores to open in Ireland. It was the brainchild of the chef, Antonio Carluccio. He has a few of these foodshop-cum-eatery in the UK. It was buzzing with people and smells and their foodshop at the front was jammed. We joined a queue for a table surveying the menus. We shuffled along at a rather surprising rate as they seated people before us. We finally got a space at a long table with a few others parties. The food looked scrumptious and we decided to have the bread tin to start and chose some pasta dishes each. The bread tin was amazing, with focaccia, bread sticks, rosemary bread, traditional Italian crusty bread and a myriad of others. The olive oil was good and smooth.

The best pasta dish had to have been the one my friend F chose: parpadelle with wild and fresh mushrooms. They had been cooked in their juices probably with a bit of stock and seasoning. That was all that was adorning the fresh, yellowy egg pasta. It looked mouth-watering. Must try it. Mine was garlicy with deep-fried spinach balls and a pesto of courgette and chilli. The lasagne that S picked looked gooey, cheesy and tomatoey. If it looks messy: it tastes amazing. Somehow we still had space for dessert. (There is always room for dessert I hear you cry!) Two of us ordered the 'authentic Italian Gelato' and the other the traditional sweet wine and biscotti for dipping (definitely the better choice). It was all yummy(though the gelato was a let down) and the price was astounding. I became obsessed with biscotti over the weekend after trying those moreish, honeyed, nut-filled morsels that melted a little with the soaked up sweet liquor of the highly concentrated wine. Its a project simmering away at the back of my mind. To compensate, I bought some Italian breakfast rusks, yellowy with farina, sweet, morish and not overly toasted like the cardboardy melba toast the Dutch eat.

In the meantime, I did spend the weekend filling out this Psychometric test for a job application. Fingers crossed I can get out of this job and into another. Toes crossed that they will be ok with my trip to Greece over the summer. It's not like I am going for 3 weeks for a holiday, it is a language course after all. I also spent the time planning what goodies to make for Greek Easter and for the arrival of T's parents. (I should be going Eeeeppp! at the thought of meeting them. I have never seen 'meeting the parents' as a big deal. Call me crazy)

T and I had our first little disagreement, over his parents. Mom would like to meet them. We (Mom & I) did send them cookies over Christmas and they sent us back some cookies. Food has been exchanged. It is the custom now to meet them and break bread together. T is not too keen. He wants them just to meet me. After 3 days here, they will then they know me. (erm, not in 3 days honey!) Mom & Dad know T , his parents know me and everyone is hunky dory. As I pointed out, they will always know me less well than M&D know T. He is living here, I talk a lot more about him than he would about me.

The final compromise was that I will tell M&D that it would make T's parents (K&J) feel beholden if they knew beforehand. They would get fussed and want to bring something to the house. So, instead, we will tell neither party and spring it on them instead, which is so much better!??

I had to tell Mom in advance about the plan. She would kill me if she didn't have prior warning to clean the house. She is under strictest instructions that they will be entertained by me in terms of refreshments and it will be just a place to put their feet up after the day long trip. Huh. Mom is in a huff now, T I believe might still be in a huff too. Compromise isn't all its cracked up to be.

Here is the final menu for Kristos Anesti

Sesame Seed Cake: it has almonds, raisins and tahini. I love that fact that the recipe asks that I line the springform pan with sugar and sesame seeds, this will come out on top after baking...topping and cake in one! Might try icing sugar, it might caramelise a bit more than regular sugar. Hmmmmm. Will post it when I have made it.

Tsoureki rolls with Star Anise flavouring. I am thinking I will make a batch of 24. That way we can have plenty for home and Mom could bring some to Greek service on Sunday.

Korova cookies. These are scrumptious, chewy chocolate biscuits. Thanks to Dorie Greenspan and Cafe Fernando. It asks to under-cook them so that they remain chewy.

I will dye the eggs on the Sunday.

If this all goes to plan, during the week I am going to try my hand at making individual little cakes for my friends, presented in little glass jars. I have Nicky at Delicious Days to thank for that idea!!